Key Message: Our search for a true passage-making catamaran was governed by a disciplined, three-part framework that prioritized fundamental performance over cosmetic comfort. We required a lightweight, second-hand multihull with a proven design, clean underbodies, and daggerboards—non-negotiable features for efficient, seaworthy bluewater sailing. This unwavering focus on a boat’s core sailing attributes, rather than its interior condition, is what led us to our vintage Catana 42, Paikea, revealing the profound value in a worn-out boat with a perfectly sound and capable hull.
Author: Shayne and Anna
Finding a true bluewater sailing boat is a different challenge from finding a floating liveaboard. Many catamarans are excellent platforms for life at anchor, but the criteria for a vessel that can safely and efficiently cross oceans steps up a level.
For our planned journey from Italy to New Zealand with our family, we broke down our search into three non-negotiable criteria.
1. The Platform: It Had to Be a Catamaran
With a family of five, the extra space and stability of a multihull were practical priorities. More than that, we simply enjoy the sensation and performance of sailing on two hulls. This decision set the scope for our entire search.
2. The Reality: A Fixed Budget
We were committed to buying our boat without going into debt. This financial constraint meant we were looking exclusively at the second-hand market. Given that catamarans command a higher price than monohulls, our budget placed us squarely in the “vintage” category, considering boats 30 years and older.
3. The Non-Negotiable: A Proper Sailing Boat
This was the most critical filter. We weren’t just looking for a place to live; we were selecting a passage-making tool. Drawing on our racing background, we focused on fundamental performance characteristics:
- Light Weight & Skinny Hulls: A light boat is a fast and seaworthy boat. We actively searched for designs with slender hulls, a direct indicator of a lightweight build that reduces drag and improves motion in a seaway.
- Clean Underbodies & Daggerboards: We avoided boats with fixed keels. Daggerboards provide superior windward performance and can be raised to reduce drag off the wind. They also grant the crucial ability to access shallow lagoons, a key requirement for cruising the Caribbean and Pacific.
- A Reputable Designer & Builder: A design from a proven name like Lock Crowther provided confidence in the fundamental naval architecture. Similarly, a build from a respected yard meant the structure was likely sound, even if the onboard systems were dated and tired.
Conclusion: The Right Fundamentals Over Cosmetic Perfection
This disciplined approach led us to our Catana 42, Paikea. When we found her, she was far from perfect—her interior was worn, and her systems were largely failed. But by focusing on the fundamentals—a proven hull form, daggerboards, and a sound structure—we could see the potential others might miss. The value was in the design and build quality; the cosmetics and systems were problems we could solve.
Keen to Join the Discussion?
In our Youngbarnacles Members Hub, we have a forum topic dedicated to more thoughts on choosing the best multihull.
In addition you’ll find professional-level discussions you won’t see anywhere else. We’re tackling the real engineering challenges: from designing carbon fiber chainplates and analyzing rudder stock loads, to optimizing sail plans on a budget and debating the merits of carbon vs. aluminum rigging. This is where serious sailors discuss NACA foil profiles, structural furlers, and composite techniques like SpaBond vs epoxy—moving beyond basic advice to the detailed engineering that makes boats safer and faster. If you’re ready to geek out on the technical details with fellow builders and professional sailors, this is your community.
Hi , Thanks for the assistance to create an Identity here
I Tried to do my own web “research” re the difference between canted and asymmetric bows but found Nada on canted, is the term “tulip” bows at all similar to canted ?
I’m assuming/postulating that the term ” canted ” refers to the twisting of the vertical plane of the hull rsulting in an increase of the resistance of the hull to vertical movement ( by displacing separate masses of water on either side of the bow when moving up and down) – while retaining the same horizontal width at the waterline / water surface.
Anywhere close ?
TIA